This Costume National collection had some melodically arresting touches : the pinstripe in a shirtless three-piece that occasionally snapped like a guitar string, and an all-white angelic biker look via fringed key chains, sleeves, and bags. There was plenty of raffish, rockish, roguish, skinny-ish shirting and tailoring -and you can't argue with the impact of a scarlet suit. The chisel-tipped winkle-pickers were fine frontman footwear. Discordant, especially when viewed from the back, was the silhouette of a high-hemmed, cinched trench in a powerful blue over black bell-bottoms. The black biker pants intersected by panels of red and white at the knee jarred, yet the matching satin printed pants and grandad-collar shirt seemed elegantly consistent with designer Ennio Capasa's troubadour template. In his notes, he said, "I worked on melting many of the elements that always inspired me, slightly balancing them in a different way". And this slight rebalancing of his always-there elements made for an entertaining enough watch.