Umit Benan said he's feeling "more open-minded, happier, lighter" these days -and not just because he has lost nearly 20lbs / 10kg. It was easy to see how jazzed he was by his new collection, 'Comandante', his latest meditation on masculinity. This one involved a little more fantasy than usual. The designer imagined Fidel Castro and Che Guevara, high on their victory over the dictator Batista, celebrating in a Havana nightclub over cigars and Cuba Libres (exactly what he did in his victory walk at the finale). He staged his show in a Peruvian restaurant on the outskirts of Paris. It looked right, like an old hotel in Havana. The models had an appropriately Latin appearance, too, although they were younger and slimmer than Umit Benan's usual casting. "I wanted it to look a little more fashion", he said. And maybe that meant it was more commercial as well. "Every single piece has something very identifiable", he added, most significantly in the way he used piping to lend some summery definition. But more defining still were the military-ish details : the tailoring with the slouch of a well-worn uniform, the shirt jackets with lapels and bellows pockets, the desert boots, the Army green, the Air Force blue... and the designer made his own uniform out of mutant pinstripes. If there was a pajama-like ease to the clothes, Umit Benan knows how to add just enough structure to secure shapely reassurance, as in the cream double-breasted at the end of the show. That said celebration. On Havana Club, of course.