Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford



"Versace stripped", Donatella declared dramatically before her show. "No decoration, no color, no print. Just the soul of Versace : silhouette and cut". She envisaged the collection as a kind of ground zero, leveling the playing field for the future. It wasn't quite that radical, but it was certainly a step away from excess and ambiguity and gladiatorial outré camp, as Versace's menswear eases on down the rocky road to a stable identity. The color palette was a banquet of soothing neutrals. For all the designer's insistence on cut, it was softness that dominated. A hooded mink coat and a Mongolian lamb backpack were its most extreme manifestations. Otherwise, jacquard-ed blousons and parkas had the comfy look and feel of blankets. "Comfy... but sexy", Donatella insisted -though not as sexy as the body-conscious cashmere knitwear in long cabled cardigans and even longer rib-knit tops, layered over leggings. The look was lean and athletic with a touch of Peter Pan, but it took on an impressive masculine heft with oversize outerwear. And the tailoring was similarly balanced, between single-button jackets and Charlie Chaplin pants -utility and aesthetics. When there weren't buttons, the jackets closed with metal clasps, a futuristic touch that worked quite well with the slightly sci-fi quality of those layered knits. The hard edge that had been stripped from the clothes was off-loaded onto the set, with Versace's Medusa head deconstructed into an abstract industrial grid. Stripped and striking, but still you found yourself wondering : whither Versace menswear ?

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