Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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Chris Crocker

A NEW CLIP EVERY WEEK HERE

"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















2.08.2013

Tim Coppens

Consistency may be the bugbear of trends, but ultimately, it's a virtue in design. It's worth remembering as you click through Tim Coppens' on-target collection entitled "Gentlemen of the sky". His star is unquestionably on the rise. Since launching on the New York runways three seasons ago, he's been scooped up by Barneys New York (where his clothes reportedly fly off the shelves), Isetan in Tokyo, and Dover Street Market in London. His look is stringent, which is not to say austere. He favors hard lines, zippers, and high necks -buttoned up to the hilt, even for Spring- in fine, occasionally unexpected materials, like rubberized napa, quilted leather, and sateen twill, offset with nylon and poplin. Sport is never far from the equation (he's making some seriously desirable track pants), and neither is uniform, particularly military uniform. This season, he explained, he'd been thinking of fighter pilots, with their "certain glamour". He's built his house, in part, on the strength of his bomber jackets, the flyboy standard, and these reappeared, with their contrast sleeves and gleaming zips, on the runway. The utility belt : pilots' parachutes. If the color story was new, with its steel blues, hazmat oranges, and hunter greens, many of the shapes had a familiar feeling. But familiarity bred content, not contempt. "I'm sure at some point I'll change, but right now I only have these twenty looks, and I really want to show what I can put in all these pieces", he stated. What he showed was a strong, cool collection, far from classic, but steadfastly wearable all the same. A deeper dive into suiting, like the double-placketed, panel-sleeved suit that closed the show, was new. So was a bit of wit : a wordless blast of Giorgio Moroder's "Take my breath away" slipped onto the soundtrack -the love theme from "Top Gun". A nice collection indeed.

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