Designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch were thinking about the moment when today meets tradition. So far, so good. This season's collection repatriated the tuxedo to the closets of the young and fabulous -with, naturally, a twist, which is where things took a turn. Their efforts to age down a staple gave the lot a camp factor that didn't telegraph elegance, their stated theme. Cases for the cummerbund included pairing one with a tank top or shorts. Overruled. Shorts and trousers were layered on top of one another and jumpers styled over shirts and ties. As they coasted away from the formal, their collection picked up steam. There were good specimens among the shirting and the sporty suiting, but a clearer edit would've brought them more to light. Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosc explored the world of colors : khaki, yellow, sienna, green, dove, blue, beige.... If in previous collections, they seemed to have grown close to darker atmospheres, this time they chose the shininess of warm colors, keeping a certain minimalism in the lines. With some references to more formal looks –these cummerbunds used as normal belts– the Dutch label kept a relaxed and comfortable fit, deeming nonchalant modernity their priority. Which was not so bad at all.
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