Kolor is a closely guarded secret quickly becoming disclosed. Junichi Abe is tight-lipped about his motivations and tight-fisted about its distribution : he's been known to turn stores away for seasons before allowing them their order forms. The tide is lately turning. Last season, he débuted the collection on the Paris runway, and for his sophomore show, the seats were filled with international editors and retailers alike. The Kolor look is largely constant. It relies on custom-developed Japanese fabrics -cottons, polys, Cupros, and so on- often melded one atop another over the shifting terrain of a single piece. For the opening look, bands of mauve silk fluttered along the hems of a pair of hardier shorts. That set the tone for the collection. Junichi Abe's tailoring is feather-light, given to swing, and often looks like it's enjoyed a long bath. Structure is stricture in Kolor's world, which is why even pants that begin with a tailored waistband to the north descend into lounge pant territory below. Familiar to the faithful, but that crowd should continue to grow. It wears its washing well. With a focus on fit and fabric, Kolor's offering was as practical as it was progressive -an aesthetics that has kept fans flocking to this Japanese label for the past eight years. And it’s no wonder that it has found favor with the fashion pack –its deconstructed blazers, creased and casual-, are all a guy needs to exude insouciant cool, while the raw edges and contrasting layers whisper effortless. This collection is one that has serious selling potential, and although the Velcro sandals may not catch on, the label is clearly going from strength to strength. Maybe time to spread the secret !