Interview :
Lestat : Morphosis habitués already know you, but for new visitors, who is Sjaak Hullekes ?
Sjaak : I am a menswear designer, born and still based in the Netherlands. My name, Sjaak, is a Dutch variation of Isaac or Jacob. I am from 1981, so on October 8, I’ll turn 31. I grew up near the Dutch North Sea coast in a town called Zierikzee, which is known for its monumental buildings, the harbor and history. I lived there until I started my studies at the ArtEZ Academy for Arts & Design here in the city of Arnhem. Arnhem is based very near the German border in Eastern Holland. It's where I reside and where the company and our first shop are based too. It is a provincial city, not big but pleasant to live in and known for its designers (product and fashion).
Lestat : How did you start your career ?
Sjaak : When I was younger, I did not really know I wanted to become a fashion designer. What I knew is that I wanted to create atmospheres, it didn’t matter to me if that was in a garden, a house or to people... I got in touch with fashion because of my parents. The closest city to the place I lived in was Antwerp. My parents mainly went there to buy antiques (one of the reasons why I first wanted to become an antique dealer or art restorer). But there was more to see in Antwerp; I saw the great designers known from Antwerp opening their first shops... That’s how I met up with fashion and how I found out I wanted to become a fashion designer. Men’s fashion always got my main interest. Women’s fashion is so big and broadly developed over the years that I do not get the need to give my input to it (yet). For men, there is still so much to do. I also like the practical perspective of men. The natural boundaries of menswear are very nice to design within.
Lestat : What’s a working day like ?
Sjaak : I start the day walking from home to the office with our dogs, which is about 10 to 15 minutes. It is nice to start the day with a fresh mind; walking with the dogs is definitely helping me with that, especially in Autumn; I love this time of the year, the change of weather and the colors are so beautiful. First thing at work, I have a cup of coffee and then say hi to every single one working at the studio. In case there are no questions, I go to my small office and start developing the upcoming collection, or other projects we are working on. Actually I am always working on three collections at the same time; the collection which is in stores (designing specials), the collection for next season, and the collection which should be shown and will come in store almost a year after the one that’s in store at the moment. Of course I'm not the only one to work; Sebastiaan Kramer (also my private partner) is responsible for the full business side of the company. I also directly work with Carlos who is my assistant designer and product developer. Then there are Sander who is our store manager, Desirée responsible for all financial stuff, Max who is doing our sales, plus about two to three interns each season. And Shannah and Meissie, our dogs !
Lestat : Who/what inspires you most ?
Sjaak : Antiques, interior design and architecture are big sources of inspiration. I always start a new season by giving a total makeover to my home. I love to go to swap-meets and flea-markets. I like to surround myself with beautiful things, I collect a lot and then I start designing a new collection. The brand is very personal in that way, and I need to collect things to feed my creativity.
Lestat : I see, I'm like that too ! How was the process of the design of this season’s collection ?
Sjaak : We went to Marrakech for the birthday party of my closest friend. When I was in there, I literally fell for its beauty and history. The colors, the influences from several decades. The Berbers with their beautiful jewelry, the spices and so on... I couldn’t stop dreaming up because of all the impressions I got out there. All those feelings made me design this season's collection, the color pallette, the materials and shapes.
Lestat : Underwear is new to you. Is it influenced by Sebastiaan Kramer ?
Sjaak : Yes our line 'Sensitives' is definitely influenced by Sebastiaan. At the time we started our company, we used to run two labels : Sjaak Hullekes and Sebastic. Sebastic was more of an underwear label, but Sebastiaan Kramer decided to quit and started as the managing director of the Sjaak Hullekes brand. We both designed for other underwear brands too, and really felt the need of a new underwear label for men. All you can see nowadays is underwear with a branded elastic, or with terrible artworks, or way too tacky, or very old fashioned. We guess men are getting more refined in their taste and therefore we needed to design underwear in good quality fabrics and more balanced colors.
Lestat : I noticed the dancers opening the show donned 'Sensitives' ! Other than that, you launched a fragrance this year (here).
Sjaak : The perfume was the result of a fantastic collaboration we did with perfumer Barnabe Fillion and designer/forecaster Borre Akkersdijk. Together we created such a good vibe that we all had the need to combine our ideas into a scent. We developed a fragrance that is 100% natural. It comes in antique bottles engraved with the Sjaak Hullekes logo. Only 64 bottles have been produced. The heavy old wooden platform and handmade box it comes with are really completing the total concept.
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Sjaak : Love is THE most important thing. You have to love to live. Love your family, love your work, love nature, love your partner, love people, love yourself and so on...
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Sjaak : Not much; it is either an Adam-brief (from the 'Sensitives' collection) or my Adam’s costume.
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Sjaak : The time I spend in front of my computer is to use the Internet, but mostly to check my e-mails or some blogs, buy something online. I'm not a geek anyway and still prefer to peruse magazines, for instance.
Lestat : Answer the question you’d like to be asked.
Sjaak : Difficult, I think I have told so much already... I don’t think I know a question anymore...
Lestat : So I thank you !
Lestat : Morphosis habitués already know you, but for new visitors, who is Sjaak Hullekes ?
Sjaak : I am a menswear designer, born and still based in the Netherlands. My name, Sjaak, is a Dutch variation of Isaac or Jacob. I am from 1981, so on October 8, I’ll turn 31. I grew up near the Dutch North Sea coast in a town called Zierikzee, which is known for its monumental buildings, the harbor and history. I lived there until I started my studies at the ArtEZ Academy for Arts & Design here in the city of Arnhem. Arnhem is based very near the German border in Eastern Holland. It's where I reside and where the company and our first shop are based too. It is a provincial city, not big but pleasant to live in and known for its designers (product and fashion).
Lestat : How did you start your career ?
Sjaak : When I was younger, I did not really know I wanted to become a fashion designer. What I knew is that I wanted to create atmospheres, it didn’t matter to me if that was in a garden, a house or to people... I got in touch with fashion because of my parents. The closest city to the place I lived in was Antwerp. My parents mainly went there to buy antiques (one of the reasons why I first wanted to become an antique dealer or art restorer). But there was more to see in Antwerp; I saw the great designers known from Antwerp opening their first shops... That’s how I met up with fashion and how I found out I wanted to become a fashion designer. Men’s fashion always got my main interest. Women’s fashion is so big and broadly developed over the years that I do not get the need to give my input to it (yet). For men, there is still so much to do. I also like the practical perspective of men. The natural boundaries of menswear are very nice to design within.
Lestat : What’s a working day like ?
Sjaak : I start the day walking from home to the office with our dogs, which is about 10 to 15 minutes. It is nice to start the day with a fresh mind; walking with the dogs is definitely helping me with that, especially in Autumn; I love this time of the year, the change of weather and the colors are so beautiful. First thing at work, I have a cup of coffee and then say hi to every single one working at the studio. In case there are no questions, I go to my small office and start developing the upcoming collection, or other projects we are working on. Actually I am always working on three collections at the same time; the collection which is in stores (designing specials), the collection for next season, and the collection which should be shown and will come in store almost a year after the one that’s in store at the moment. Of course I'm not the only one to work; Sebastiaan Kramer (also my private partner) is responsible for the full business side of the company. I also directly work with Carlos who is my assistant designer and product developer. Then there are Sander who is our store manager, Desirée responsible for all financial stuff, Max who is doing our sales, plus about two to three interns each season. And Shannah and Meissie, our dogs !
Lestat : Who/what inspires you most ?
Sjaak : Antiques, interior design and architecture are big sources of inspiration. I always start a new season by giving a total makeover to my home. I love to go to swap-meets and flea-markets. I like to surround myself with beautiful things, I collect a lot and then I start designing a new collection. The brand is very personal in that way, and I need to collect things to feed my creativity.
Lestat : I see, I'm like that too ! How was the process of the design of this season’s collection ?
Sjaak : We went to Marrakech for the birthday party of my closest friend. When I was in there, I literally fell for its beauty and history. The colors, the influences from several decades. The Berbers with their beautiful jewelry, the spices and so on... I couldn’t stop dreaming up because of all the impressions I got out there. All those feelings made me design this season's collection, the color pallette, the materials and shapes.
Lestat : Underwear is new to you. Is it influenced by Sebastiaan Kramer ?
Sjaak : Yes our line 'Sensitives' is definitely influenced by Sebastiaan. At the time we started our company, we used to run two labels : Sjaak Hullekes and Sebastic. Sebastic was more of an underwear label, but Sebastiaan Kramer decided to quit and started as the managing director of the Sjaak Hullekes brand. We both designed for other underwear brands too, and really felt the need of a new underwear label for men. All you can see nowadays is underwear with a branded elastic, or with terrible artworks, or way too tacky, or very old fashioned. We guess men are getting more refined in their taste and therefore we needed to design underwear in good quality fabrics and more balanced colors.
Lestat : I noticed the dancers opening the show donned 'Sensitives' ! Other than that, you launched a fragrance this year (here).
Sjaak : The perfume was the result of a fantastic collaboration we did with perfumer Barnabe Fillion and designer/forecaster Borre Akkersdijk. Together we created such a good vibe that we all had the need to combine our ideas into a scent. We developed a fragrance that is 100% natural. It comes in antique bottles engraved with the Sjaak Hullekes logo. Only 64 bottles have been produced. The heavy old wooden platform and handmade box it comes with are really completing the total concept.
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Sjaak : Love is THE most important thing. You have to love to live. Love your family, love your work, love nature, love your partner, love people, love yourself and so on...
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Sjaak : Not much; it is either an Adam-brief (from the 'Sensitives' collection) or my Adam’s costume.
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Sjaak : The time I spend in front of my computer is to use the Internet, but mostly to check my e-mails or some blogs, buy something online. I'm not a geek anyway and still prefer to peruse magazines, for instance.
Lestat : Answer the question you’d like to be asked.
Sjaak : Difficult, I think I have told so much already... I don’t think I know a question anymore...
Lestat : So I thank you !
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