American designer Patrik Ervell, 34, couldn't have chosen a more topical theme than the friction between repression and revolt, so it seemed rather fashion-y of him to deny any political context for this season's collection. The way he was pitching it, his theme was really his way round a new take on the aesthetics of the uniform. "What authority looks like now", he explained. "You disarm it by referencing it". Still sounds pretty political, but whatevs; it fortunately made for a strong, even radical showing. The authority Mr E referenced was a police state. The uniforms were those of urban commandos. The opening outfit -a sweater in nylon-patched electric blue baby alpaca, matched to pleated flecked wool pants- set the tone : a Blade Runner-ish combo of tech and retro. Patryk Ervell talked about "moments of protest that emerge through the cracks and edges of a heavily policed state", and he found a striking visual metaphor in the gold ribbing on a nylon top, or the gold trim on a fleece jacket : hardcore function unhinged by a subversive flicker of luxury. Where once he had shivering latex as his trump card, here the NYC-based designer used hand-painted silk in shirts, and a SWAT jacket. It was such a poetic touch that his notion of disarming authority suddenly made sense. Political power may grow out of the barrel of a gun, but Patrik Ervell's poetry made a police state pretty for one mad moment. He also played with a few slight details, like ribbed rubber straps and soles that gave the otherwise minimalist aura a hit of texture. Contemplative with a forward-thinking lean. The suits were left simple -matte gray, navy, and other speckled shades- with a young fit. He also kept the shirts club-collared and buttoned high, with an arty disposition. If shoegaze could be distilled into menswear, this show would be the results. A nice wearable collection, you would say. Which is not so bad at all.
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