Backstage before their show, American designers Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein talked about the adventure and exoticism of the post-punk era New York City, when "artists were really able to be artists", as Mr Weiland put it. "We feel connected to that". Rose-colored as that view may be, it gave the pair a rebellious platform to jump off of. A partnership with Finnish firm Saga allowed the label to experiment with fur for the first time. The emphasis on layering, along with a smattering of plaids, called to mind yet another music era : grunge. Add a few cropped sweaters, and a fusty-kitsch floral print, and most of the looks landed solidly in the 90s. Subtle tweaks on solid classics made the label's hooded sweatshirts, duffel coats and fitted work shirts the ideal foundation pieces for a casual well-tailored wardrobe. Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein seem to know what boys like and what guys want this season, as they produced an on-point collection of pieces that would be appropriate for any young man. Would-be wardrobe essentials like spot-on parkas and softly tailored blazers shared runway space with more inventive items like reverse tuxedo trousers -the stripe is on the inside of the leg, as opposed to out- and color-blocked button-front shirts. Like so many this season, burgundy was the big color statement, but navy blue ran a close second, with the designers working several shades of color often into one look. Were there incendiary fashion moves afoot here ? No. But hip prints, quality fabrics and a great fit are plenty to get fired up about. Which is not so bad at all.
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