Layering was key for Martine Rose's proposition, showing as part of the three MAN collections again this year at the Topman space held in the Royal Opera House -with Matthew Miller and Shaun Samson. Once again taking shirts and tailoring to new levels with her street but sophisticated line, this season there was a new feeling. The Brit designer's aesthetics is one that is inherent within her collection, but over the past few seasons we have seen her take things forwards a great deal, consistently adding new elements and pushing herself and her line on. Sheer shirts opened the show, layered over brights and a graffiti-inspired print, which was seen in a number of pieces including fantastic all over printed slimline pants. The shirting came through in a number of different forms, as ever, with horizontal strips of color set off against a white base. Then it was a number of pieces of denim, adding a new direction, produced in a dark gray and a medium blue. It was denim jackets and looser cut jeans over the top of super colorful shirts. Huge wide cropped trousers also made an appearance, adding a look previously unseen from Martine Rose, but still giving a nod in her direction. The new collection moved on from the structured and military feel of the previous season, whilst maintaining an innovative use of fabrics and an acute attention to detail that has become a trademark for Martine Rose. Drawing inspiration from the Seventies Californian skate and surf scene as well as the legendary Zephyr Team, her collection used sheer fabrics and washed denims, reminiscent of the sun bleached sidewalks of cult documentary "Dogtown and Z-boys" by Stacy Peralta. The collection demonstrated the importance of energy, youth and individuality within fashion. Martine Rose looked to icons such as Kurt Cobain for inspiration; his ability to subvert the perception of the 20th century man, with his appearances in dresses and skirts, lent to the idea of wearing sheer culottes over trousers.
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