Danish designer Henrik Vibskov invited his audience to a Paris highschool for his show, and in its open courtyard, erected a makeshift theater set with some interesting plywood wall fixtures like in his Broome Street store -one that attendants spun on wheels as beret-clad, goggled models circled through its rooms around "The axis" -title of the collection. To everything there is a season -turn, turn, turn ? Maybe the designer was making a comment on the revolving door of life, or the fashion collection cycle, or maybe he was just indulging his usual taste for impenetrable theatrics. As far as the clothes were concerned, they struck the usual Vibskovian balance of outré and cool. Drop-crotch trousers, pleated shorts, and mélange tights were all on display. Statements knits -in sweater, suit, and Perfecto form- were the strongest of the lot. Odds are, they're what the faithful will be snapping off the racks at Henrik Vibskov's NYC shoppe. And speaking of racks, some pieces came with racks practically included. A series of big-shouldered blazers had wooden dowels jutting through the back and out the sides. Showpieces, surely. They put you in mind of another great showpiece of our time : Carol Burnett's famous 'Gone with the wind' dress, curtain rod included. But high concept fashion never scared anyone. Henrik Vibskov categorically constitutes the exception. Season after season, he imposes not only with his visionary conceptualism, elaborate fabric processings and witful experimentalism, he also keeps surging forward in measures of fashion presentation and conversion. And whatever his intentions might be, the deferring circles of his fashion-panoptikum induced a pleasant vertigo on the audience, making them receptive to his rich material and color sheme.
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