Founded in 2001 by designer Rogan Gregory and Scott Mackinlay-Hahn in New York City, Rogan combines soulful minimalism with traditional quality, working with the contrast and interplay of texture and monochrome to create strong graphic statements. Rogan Gregory earned his stripes as a designer trafficking in pretty elemental sportswear -jeans, tees, throw-on knits. Judging by this season's collection, that reputation is in dire need of an update. His take on what constitutes ease in fashion seems to have grown up alongside his customers. There's a more sophisticated design vocabulary at work. There's a nice textural quality to these clothes -a rough hand to the knits and a weather-beaten look to other pieces- that the designer has juxtaposed with his typically fine casual tailoring. He tends to defer to traditional menswear silhouettes, but he puts his own stamp on pieces by giving them this worn-in quality. He does it with materials -such as the wrinkled khaki in a field jacket- and with cut : witness the soft shoulders of his marled henleys and sweaters. Roogan Gregory has clearly spent a lot of time fussing with the details here, but the clothes don't feel fussy, and that's their strength. As a designer, he's very attuned to the masculine. Keep an eye on this label !
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