Frida Giannini's men's show for this season marked Gucci's 90th anniversary. The cornerstone of the collection was a lean 2-button suit, which trousers flared slightly over the shoe. With Faces-era Rod Stewart croaking over the sound system, the connection with a vintage Gucci moment was inescapable. But la signora Giannini has found her strength in that connection. Streamlined luxe for the Ur-jet set was Gucci's original calling card, and the designer laid on a master class in subtle opulence, from the opening trench in ostrich through the double-breasted croc blazer to an astrakhan sweater for evening. Funny thing though -as excessive as that ménagerie may sound, it played as quite easy, even restrained, due to the muted colors and casual attitude. Time has taught Frida Giannini how to bring a light touch to the legacy, how to integrate her own experience (the snappy dressers of her girlhood rock dreams) with the demands of a long-established house like Gucci. And when one model strode down the catwalk in a shaggy swath of Mongolian lamb, the two worlds collided beautifully.
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