For this season's collection, the clean lines and sharp angles of classic suits and tailored outerwear oozed professionalism. But it still showed plenty of ironic downtown flair in details such as chains, taping and stars inspired by Jasper Johns’ American flag. Is this an extension of the punk vibe felt last season ? The collection is also a nod to the neo 80s influence in today’s culture, and references several icons of that time : Boy George, Morissey, Joy Division, Bruce Weber, Jean-Paul Goude and Peter Saville, who recently appeared in the ad campaign. With input from Staff International, this line has become more refined, grown up, and finally distinct from its younger sibling, Marc by Marc Jacobs. Though one of the proponents of men's skirts, even Marc Jacobs would have to concede that they're unlikely to become a common staple in men's wardrobe any time soon. So when it came to this collection, Mr Jacobs approached the problem by fusing the man skirt with the more accepted dress piece : pants. With a left leg draped in match fabric and a kilt-like manner, this is one fusion that may prove popular. Differing interpretations of the cuts of trousers are common in the collection. While it's not the death knell for the male skinny silhouette (they're in there as well), Marc Jacobs is acknowledging that the men who popularised the skinny silhouette are growing up and looking for something new. Which definitely is a good thing.
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