Rei Kawakubo proved why she is the proverbial soothsayer when it comes to designing beautifully modern clothes for men. Although the designer's craft is often seen as anti-fashion, this seasons collection was a carefully balanced and commercially aware collection of signature concepts and styles. Softly tailored suits were deconstructed and reformed in contrasting fabrics and patterns. Florals, stripes, checks, gingham and tartan are all firm favorites of Kawakubo and patchworked together evoked a romantic and perfectly charming collection. Ties were stiched onto the outside of jackets and knitted cardigans were fused over outer jackets. The collection shared the artisan qualities seen elsewhere on the catwalks and Kawakubo has a unique 'Midas touch' when it comes to handling fabric and color, that is both sophisticated and distinguished. Layering is also a signature technique for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and the collection utilised a relaxed approach to mixing crumpled garments to create a perceptive and acutely realised set of fine clothes. Kawakubo has been honing her menswear line successfully for a few seasons now. Clarifying and refining both the sensibility and wearability, the designer manages to deliver collections which are strewn with romance but still retaining a radical edge. The show also witnessed the first visible reference to Michael Jackson's death -not through the clothes of course- but 'R.I.P. Smooth Criminal' was written on Jethro Cave's arm. Kawakubo endorsed it ?
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