Belgian Ann Demeulemeester moved forward this season, and left behind the romantic musing of her last few collections. Showing in an urban environment gave her clothes a tougher edge as she reworked her gothic aesthetics to a sharper more vibrant position. In her signature palette of black, cream and white Demeulemeester used leather set against floaty delicate fabrics to produce a collection that conveys a delicate intelligience. Headbands were the prescribed accessory and hoods provided protection for bare-chested boys. Skinny waistcoats over draped pants, large cumberbands and sequins are all key elements of the designer's fashion language and again she used them to maximum effect. Demeulemeester's rich and beautifully crafted clothes have a solid following by those who appreciate the character and soul the designer embodies in each collection. Each season Ann Demeulemeester develops her subtle and distinguished design ideas to sensitively reflect a personal interpretation of contemporary fashion. Kudos, I heart this collection !