Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Happiness is just a hairflip away.
"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Marc Jacobs is still fascinated by the idea of a young man on the go -though this time around he skipped the sense of foreboding that darkened his Fall '08 "urban nomad" offering. This season's was young and bright, with a palette of primary colors and patterns created by the Parisian design firm M/M. Further playfulness took the form of suit coats, shorts, and wovens emblazoned with cartoon depictions of breakfast foods (hard not to read that as a reflection of Mr. Jacobs' personal taste in body adornment, which has been veering into the realm of children's cartoon characters of late). But for all the showmanship of the prints and patterns, the main focus of Jacobs' menswear will always be clothes that beg to be worn, and here there was something for nearly everyone. Bacon-and-egg-festooned blazers not your thing ? Try a lightweight, soft-shouldered version pale gray. The suiting that appeared in fire-engine red was also shown in more reality-friendly hues like black, cobalt, and slate (with a charcoal racing stripe on the pants). And while color blocking on the plackets of the shirting and other garments evoked an early-nineties feeling, the retro vibe was kept in check with modern fabrics like featherweight nylon or ultrathin crinkled leather.
Posted by Lestat at 6:00 AM
"In the end, black is best", said Adrian Joffe as he fished for a rationale for his wife Rei Kawakubo’s latest collection for Comme des Garçons. "And she's always loved men in skirts". Lots of black, lots of skirts -that goes some way toward clarifying the show’s variations on a theme. But it scarcely goes all the way, because, as usual, there was such a weight of subtext in Comme's presentation. Take men in skirts. As depicted in the show, with a skirt pleated and white, like the traditional uniform of a Greek soldier, or full and white, like the apron of a worker in an August Sander photograph, or short and black, like a schoolgirl's uniform, men were a many and varied feast. Wearing one of Stephen Jones’ squashy hats and Rei’s floor-length black number, a man might even be cast as the stern governess of an Edwardian household. Or a slightly twisted seminarian ("Savage priests" was actually another of Joffe's cryptic offerings). Frilling, beading, netting, even the hint of a petticoat under a particularly flouncy skirt, suggested a subversive assault on masculine certitudes, but the jackets and tailcoat embossed with a circular motif, or the splotchy print of photons pinging around on a suit were less ambiguous. Likewise, the barbed-wire design embossed on a top. And it’s more likely barbed wire than, say, the stern-governess look that will make it to the floor of Comme des Garçon's mens shops.
Posted by Lestat at 6:01 AM