Dior

Kris van Assche pared down the list of signatures he has applied to the Dior man, making for a concise, shorter show (which was fortunate since the producers decided to broil the audience with radiant heaters overhead -watch the video in the second part). Taking “angles” as his theme, KvA worked asymmetrical closures and geometric cutting into his entirely black and white collection, injecting mild references to punk (zippers, bindings and earrings) and Eighties new wave. He maintained the stretch pants and the pleated parachute pants, and the latter shape acquired an off-centered, fold-over waistband. Trousers ended in black ankle boots with distinctive white piping. Other new statements included neck treatments such as tall, crumpled cowls, and striking shirts with contrast tabs crossing the throat. Boxy jackets topped tunics. In three seasons, Kris van Assche has had no trouble distinguishing himself from his predecessor. He now should concentrate on the clarity of the luxury proposition that the Dior name demands, and elevate the clothes from club wear. The techno music and the fog machines aren’t helping.

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