A ruched curtain lifted to reveal the betuxed Caten twins playing grand piano at the foot of a grand staircase. And a new-style Fred & Ginger whooshed across the stage to Cole Porter. But the staircase was slightly shabby, a dégradé symbol of the American dream. It was an extraordinary opening for a show that embraced the dichotomy of the Great Depression. On the one hand, the tailcoat-and-spats glitz of Hollywood, on the other, the railroad man in his engineer stripes.
The collection was accordingly based on the Caten twins' signature -and now, timely- combination of formal and casual : a tux jacket with tan pants; a croc blazer with pleated gray flannels; a tailcoat cut down to a waistcoat (so nice -but $2,000 !), layered over a denim shirt and distressed jeans. There was nothing new here. Nor were there any surprises in the shrinkage of familiar items like a shearling jacket (Dsquared²'s fans like a tight fit). But what felt fresh this time was the Catens' unholy optimism. Their models, as gorgeous as replicants (I saw at least two pairs of twins, and I could swear there were triplets in there somewhere), massed on stage to sing "The show must go on". And the twins took their bow to Annie's anthem of wanton positivity, "Tomorrow".
The collection was accordingly based on the Caten twins' signature -and now, timely- combination of formal and casual : a tux jacket with tan pants; a croc blazer with pleated gray flannels; a tailcoat cut down to a waistcoat (so nice -but $2,000 !), layered over a denim shirt and distressed jeans. There was nothing new here. Nor were there any surprises in the shrinkage of familiar items like a shearling jacket (Dsquared²'s fans like a tight fit). But what felt fresh this time was the Catens' unholy optimism. Their models, as gorgeous as replicants (I saw at least two pairs of twins, and I could swear there were triplets in there somewhere), massed on stage to sing "The show must go on". And the twins took their bow to Annie's anthem of wanton positivity, "Tomorrow".
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