The Korean designer Juun J. presented for Spring/Summer 2008 a collection (his first under his name) that goes far beyond promising. Through a wise selection of fabrics, the designer constructed a stylish collection that crosses the tastes of a wide range of ages. Even though the young models looked more like twinks (who would complain anyhow ?) than real men.
The backbone of his work this season is based on a research around the trench-coat. What a good idea for a first runway show in Paris to play with this piece of the male wardrobe, which could not be more Parisian ! From the first sleeveless trench-coat in camel to the trench-coat bottom only worn as a skirt just cinched by its belt over pants, to the trousers and trench top combi, creativity and classic finishings are in : perfect visible double seams in the tradition of French tailoring, trench coat buckles and metal pieces covered in leather adorn the reinterpreted volumes by Juun J. The brilliant work on a sleeveless trench with large shoulders set the tone for what was to come. This first look was followed up in a jumpsuit with integrated work in the same trench fabric. Juun J. also crafted a hooded bolero cape with his trench fabric. Then there is the designer’s “studio director pants” created in steel blue with lots of belts, with a high rising waistband which spans just above the navel. He created other pants with embellishments such as decorative pockets, belts and adjustment bands. Of the other strong pieces in the collection, one simply cannot ignore the long trench-inspired kilt. In two words, it is damn hot ! Juun J. designed a superb ensemble of a hybrid shirt-blazer in light cotton materials, then a short jumpsuit in the same fabric, but with gray pinstripes.
The backbone of his work this season is based on a research around the trench-coat. What a good idea for a first runway show in Paris to play with this piece of the male wardrobe, which could not be more Parisian ! From the first sleeveless trench-coat in camel to the trench-coat bottom only worn as a skirt just cinched by its belt over pants, to the trousers and trench top combi, creativity and classic finishings are in : perfect visible double seams in the tradition of French tailoring, trench coat buckles and metal pieces covered in leather adorn the reinterpreted volumes by Juun J. The brilliant work on a sleeveless trench with large shoulders set the tone for what was to come. This first look was followed up in a jumpsuit with integrated work in the same trench fabric. Juun J. also crafted a hooded bolero cape with his trench fabric. Then there is the designer’s “studio director pants” created in steel blue with lots of belts, with a high rising waistband which spans just above the navel. He created other pants with embellishments such as decorative pockets, belts and adjustment bands. Of the other strong pieces in the collection, one simply cannot ignore the long trench-inspired kilt. In two words, it is damn hot ! Juun J. designed a superb ensemble of a hybrid shirt-blazer in light cotton materials, then a short jumpsuit in the same fabric, but with gray pinstripes.
Splendidly comfortable materials are also interpreted in ample white shirts with double cuffs worn open to prolong the arms in a casual attitude. Some shirtsleeves are even underlined on their entire length with a ribbon of matching colour but contrasting fabric with buttons to create a new split that can reveal a fuller length of their wearer’s arms. One can also define Juun’s work in this collection by the detailing enhancements found in the sleeves. Splendid knitwear -for instance striped with a white induction on a white see-through knitted piece-, also all displayed a different elaborate type of knitted work on the sleeves of the same pieces. Juun. J. likes to play and make you believe that you are seeing a guy who wrapped a cardigan over his trousers when it is a kind of half skirt with the front open tied with an inlaid belt of the same material around the waist over the pants. Pants are always very much tied to the ankles, sometimes full length, sometimes shorter and turned up. They are worn with splendid boots that cleverly mix the traditional finishing of city shoes for men with the soles of modern sneakers to create a contemporary refinement.
Although some organza additions could have been avoided, being slightly too much of a joke for a serious runway show, the discovery of Juun J. on a Paris runway was the unexpected pleasant surprise of the Fashion Week, and probably of the season. Juun .J. seems to be constantly wondering around each feature in the garment he is creating. Sleeves ? What if we say “no”? What could we do with a sleeveless trench-coat ? What if we say “yes”? Do we really have to put the arms in them or could we use them to create a cape effect ?…
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