Narciso Rodriguez's evolutionary approach to womenswear has resulted in Seventh Avenue's most clearly defined fashion geometry. He is still in the early stages of that process with his menswear, and though his répertoire is small, it's precise : fine fabrics, a monochrome palette, athletic inspirations. This season, for instance, Rodriguez had in mind an "urban ski suit", something sleek and aerodynamic to ease one's passage through a fast-moving metropolis. That might mean a zip-front, pocketless parka, or a geometrically pieced-together cardigan jacket in a camel-colored blend of wool and nylon. The tailoring was similarly detail-free : 2-button suits in grey herringbone tweed or navy wool had a plainness that virtually screamed for the imprint of the wearer's personality. There was a smidgeon less subtlety with a cashmere sweater printed in a Rorschach-like pattern. A black nylon coat had the stylish volume of an Eisenhower jacket. Another coat in black cashmere was belted tight to give it a skirtlike flare. The same oddly feminizing detail was echoed in the little zip on the back of a short-sleeved top. Such flourishes hinted at depths still to be explored.
Tweet this!
