Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker

A NEW CLIP EVERY WEEK HERE

"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















1.18.2008

Kim Jones

There were a couple of reasons Kim Jones crossed the Atlantic to show in New York this season. First and foremost, there was his ongoing fascination with the convergence of high & low life in the latter days of the Warhol scene, which helped provide the foundation for Jones' new collection -in the way, e.g., he transformed basic activewear staples with the help of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons and new luxe materials like shearling and baby alpaca. Tracksuit couture? Not exactly. The change was more in proportions that saw a baseball jacket elongated to coat length and denim trackpants exploded with multi-pleats, or in the trompe-l'œil layering of a mohair tank over a sweater.
Jones' facility with fashion technology was obvious in the bouclé-like carpet wool he used for a traditional Norfolk jacket. And the futuristic edge that has become something of a signature for him was evident in his vamp on the car coat, which combined winter-white shearling and needle cord for a 2-textured effect. The wit in Jones' accumulated sportswear wisdom named the coat "Transformer" in honor of Warholite Lou Reed (another "Transformer" jammed white and navy shearling together in a big cozy overshirt). And there was surely sly humor in the plushy polar effect of the white teddy-bear-fur all-in-one sported by eternally bashful Canadian, Ryan Taylor.
Oh, and the other reason why Jones crossed the pond? It was purely commercial -it's about time he had a bigger stage. In which light, mention must be made of his casting for the show. His crew of teen pugilists might actually be that Holy Grail in fashion : a New Look.









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Posted by Lestat at 9:13 AM

1 comment:

Antinous said...

Cette collection est très "urbaine", citadine, minimaliste à souhait, articulée autour de deux non-couleurs que sont le blanc et le noir (avec l'exception d'un peu de bleu et de gris).

On pense à de jeunes sportifs ou étudiants qui pourraient aussi bien se promener dans Central Park qu'à Hyde Park, voire au Parc Monceau !

C'est sobre, pas baroque du tout: "neat and pretty, on with the show", comme on disait dans les années 50, dans les shows très puritains de Walt Disney (maccarthysme oblige)!
:-o)

Cheers,
Antinous

January 20, 2008 at 9:04:00 AM PST

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