As a reference point for her new man, Ann Demeulemeester imagined Virginia Woolf’s Orlando arriving in the 21st century and crashing the avant-garde. Who cares about the obtuseness of the inspiration -it resulted in the designer’s strongest menswear show to date. By striking a perfect balance between power and vulnerability, she finally realized her oft-stated quest to find the tenderness in the heart of men. The power was plain to see in the graphic palette and the clear definition of her signature layering, helped by white piping that illuminated the all-black tailoring. Where once upon a time there would've been a mass of textures and trailing asymmetry, here there were a couple of jackets layered over each other, with a greatcoat on top. Add pants tucked into boots throughout, and the silhouette was radically simplified, but evocative nonetheless.
Demeulemeester’s models usually look like dreamy poètes maudits. Here they came across as handsome dark princes. The fairy-tale association didn’t end there. A silhouette drawn from an illustrated fantasy customized tee-shirts, buttons, and cuff links. Such details catered to the dandy in the Demeulemeester man, but there was much more -a final group gleamed with jet embroidery, the extremity and expense of which was enough to make the designer light-headed when she thought about her production schedule.
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1 comment:
What nice, handsome dark princes indeed !
Dystopia again ? (joke).
Lestat, if you allow me a slight and personal comment:
as far as I am concerned, I do not like the well-known expression " poètes maudits" ( i.e. accursed poets, in English).
Who decided to call these brilliant writers " accursed" ?
Between us, it's the god-fearing, right-thinking people who called them accurst poets !
Today, in 2008, nobody remembers the right-thinking society which labelled these brilliant poets acccursed.
On the contrary, today, everyone recognizes the genius of these so-called "poètes maudits" !
Henceforth, in our free, secular, broad-minded society, we should not use that biased label "accursed poets" any longer !
Like the Dsquared² Caten guys, Galliano and McQueen, we should just not care of those right-thinking, god-fearing people and their spurious, ludicrous, anachronous labels !
They were poets and it's enough ; whether they were rich or poor, it was their past life, and now they are burried anyway !
We should just remember their brilliant work and forget those sterile, embittered, sanctimonious or holier-than-thou persons.
To me they are blessed poets or good ones !
Cheers and Kisses,
Antinous - Paris
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