Louis Vuitton's leading designer Marc Jacobs claims he doesn't exactly understand menswear. That's why he handed the reins of this collection to Paul Helbers, formerly of Martin Margiela's design studio. The new man at the helm was also responsible for the David Hockney-inspired presentation, which (in an effort to create an impression of real clothes in motion) featured plastic-looking models marching in front of shimmering back-projections. If the overall effect is too abstract to allow a full appreciation of Mr Helbers' work, there are signs that he might in time set a new standard for Louis Vuitton menswear. Highfalutin concept aside, it's easy to see the appeal of trim blousons, beautifully cut pants and piqué waiscoats that add a flair of fashion.