Milan-based designer Ennio Capasa (who founded the house in 1986) takes it a man’s ideal state in summer involves no clothes at all (not such a bad idea really, given the much talked-about global warning). So the challenge he set himself with this collection was to create clothing that would allow a man to dress and yet feel naked at the same time. He was most obviously successful with gauzy-silk knits, as well as a shirt in linen netting. Less practically, he sometimes chose to do away with shirts altogether, showing his body-cleaving Costume jackets with just a scarf. He also relaxed the tightness of that signature silhouette a little: pants that roll up and fasten with tabs, meanwhile, are positively frisky compared to the designer’s customary hard-urban edge (even worn with sandals !). But the collection’s major concession to summer is the silvery glaze on fabrics; it suggests the sparkle of sun on water or the sheen of bare skin.