Vienna-based Ute Ploier, 30, another St Martin’s graduate but also taught by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Viktor&Rolf and finally Raf Simons, launched her label in 2003 and debuted in Paris the year after. Her creations reflect a critical analysis of the modern men’s armour, the suit, and all that evolves around it: role play, social connotations and issues of masculinity.



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